Melton Constable History

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A. John E. Gaskin
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Melton Constable in the 1920s
A. John (Jack) E. Gaskin

The recent publishing of the so-called 'sordid outlook' of Melton Constable has caused me to cast my memory back to the Melton of the 1920's-the activities engaged in and above all the people who lived there. There will be many who will share these memories and if I revive a spark in their minds, I will be very pleased.

First of all, the Midland and Great Northern Railway and the "works" were the predominant feature and heart-throb of the place: When all went well at the "works" everyone rejoiced and when things did not go well the whole area suffered, as in the general strike of 1926. The workshops and the railway, which was the great joy of the chief engineer Mr. William Marriott, employed many men both from Melton and from the surrounding villages. When the buzzer blew for leaving-off time the men seemed to pour over the bridge and as a little lad I was taught to keep out of the way in case I was knocked down in the rush. With the decline and closure of the railway works Melton lost its vital driving force and today we see a valiant struggle by the inhabitants to keep the village alive. An inquest as to why the works closed will serve no useful purpose; time has proved that it was but a pattern of things to come all over the country.

Secondly, the school played an important part in the life of Melton. Many will recall Boss Hanner, whose theory was, "If I cannot knock it into you one way, I will another". (Many of us had it knocked into us one way or the other, with a thump on the back.)

The higher standard school, as it was called then, situated between Melton and Briston, was under the able headship of Mr. Harry May. He was a stern disciplinarian but he was a born teacher and could command good order simply by the great interest he created in the subject he was dealing with; this could range from the piloting of one of the early aeroplanes to maths, from the Bible to yacht racing at Overy Staithe. Then there were the various places of worship: the "tin" church, the Railway Mission and Avondale House (meeting place of the Brethren). Quite a number of Melton folk went to Briston for services and the Salvation Army had many followers from Melton. Of Briston congregational chapel, many will remember the Rev. Hales (Cakes and buns'), who as a preacher left much to be desired but whose church was full every Sunday. There were also two Methodist chapels, Hall Street and the central chapel, which were supported by Melton people. The Railway Mission had many faithful workers. One can recall names like Freddie Copp, Walter Watling, Bob Masters, Mr. Fulcher, Mr. Jarrat, "Pa" Tomblin and Mr. Wolsey who used to deliver the Railway Signal from door to door on the first Sunday in every month; this he did in all weathers, summer and winter.

One of the outstanding characters was G. B. Clarke, who was secretary of the Mission for a number of years. "G.B." as he was affectionately called, always expected and took it for granted that a person could and would do whatever he asked of them-and it usually worked. One can recall G.B.'s brilliant conducting of the Melton Constable choral society in their various performances and his conducting of the Mission choir; the rendering of the "Children's Messiah" being outstanding. His love of music was shared by his wife, who accompanied most of the performances at the piano and played the organ for the services.

I can remember one day calling upon Mr. and Mrs. Clarke; as I approached the door I could hear a programme of music and singing being broadcast on the wireless. I knocked, opened the door and at that moment Mrs. Clarke rushed from the living room and into the front room, struck a note on the piano and shouted, "George - she got a top A!"

G.B. will be remembered by his faithful work in the Mission Sunday School, his teaching in the Bible class and the able manner in which he conducted a service. There must be countless men and women who will remember the help he gave then for their daily lives. It is fitting that the clock in the present Mission is inscribed, G. B. Clarke.

The institute (secretary A. Q. Newman: was a place to which we all went for our various pursuits: The library, billiards, night classes, to pay the club, concerts, the reading room, dancing and whist drives and even for a bath. The main hall was used on a Sunday for services and Sunday school and on Wednesday evenings for Bible study. It was packed to capacity every Sunday evening when many a stirring sermon was preached by men and sometimes women, drawn from the various denominations in the area. This work is continuing at the present Gospel Hall, which is the oldest building in Melton. Originally built as two cottages in the late 1880's, it was later made into a drill hall. There the church lads met: the bands marched down the hill, bugles at full blast, drums rolling; sometimes headed by the Rechabites' banner, at other times there would be a procession led by Hindolveston silver band and headed by the "Union Banner". All stirred the hearts of the people, young and old, as they lined the pavements watching the procession go past. The Scouts and Cubs also flourished under the able leadership of Mr. Langley and other helpers. Another of the outstanding characters (at least in size) was Dooney Prvke ... he weighed nearly 20 stone and had tremendous strength ... at lunch time he would eat for an hour ... he was so strong that he could hold part of the bogey of the engine up whilst his mate either bolted or riveted it into position … no wonder they called him "The Human Crane". Anything that was large was called "A DOONEY". I had a number of Tops ... the largest one was called a DOONEY.

The recreation ground, known as the 'Rec', was the place where those of all ages spent many happy hours. Memories stir of frying the eggs and chips in the plantation, blocking up the 'river' and swimming in it ... (Duck Fulcher: "Me fort me was a duck; me fort me could swim".) There was also cricket with home-made bats and football which was of quite high standard, climbing the oak trees, making pop-guns and bows and arrows and flying homemade kites; taking our picnic teas wrapped in newspaper, which were partaken on the banks of the river and under the oak trees. The 'river' was really nothing more than a muddy little stream but to us it was "the river". The football team was good enough to play against such teams as Fakenham, Gorleston or Holt, etc. The "Puff-Puffs" were quite renowned and to be chosen for the team was an honour. The rules were that no-one under twentv-one and no married men were to be allowed in the team. Cricket was played on the 'Rec' but the important matches were held on the Melton Park ground which was situated near the Tower Club. The late Mr. Arthur Hammond of Bale gave me his score card for 1904 and 1905, which had been written by the immaculate hand of little Bob Long. In one match he had scored 132 runs and taken six wickets - test standard of today.

Bowls was played and still is at the nursery and tennis on the court near the "sands"; billiards and table tennis at the institute and marbles in the alleys and Colville road was the scene of tops in the Springtime. Most of the boys had iron hoops which had been made by a local blacksmith. We spent a great deal of time watching the horses being shod at the smithy near Burgh Hall farm and searching for beechnuts and chestnuts in the Autumn.

A highlight in the calendar was Guy Fawkes' Night: For weeks beforehand any material that would burn was taken to the sands and by the evening of November 5th a huge heap of rubbish would have accumulated. The lighting of the bonfire was a ceremony performed by a senior boy and tar was fetched in buckets from the gas-works and poured onto the flames, which soared high into the air. We boys and girls ran around with 'Jack O lanterns - swedes hollowed out and with slits cut for eyes, nose and mouth and a candle inside; an onlooker must have thought we looked like a lot of young dervishes. The smell of spent gunpowder smoke hung like a pall over the village and seemed to linger for days.

The allotments were the pride and joy of the men and women of Melton. Flowers bedecked the borders of the paths and there were bowers with seats. Perhaps more important, good crops were grown, fertilized with good, honest pig and chicken manure. There was a healthy pride in the tilling of the land and keeping of poultry and pigs and also rabbits, which had a certain effect on the produces ... In early summer, a man would produce from his pocket some new potatoes and say to his workmate, "Can you beat these?"

The village was well-provided for with shops and traders. On the station platform was the refreshments room; in the height of the summer season, when the Specials from the Midlands would be coming in every few minutes, the staff would be kept very busy serving teas and sandwiches for the hungry and thirsty travellers. I can vividly remember as it seemed to me at the time), fighting my way through the crowds to deliver the 4 lb. sandwich loaves to Miss Adams or to one of the assistants. A lad would meet the train with a tray of chocolates and cigarettes - Eric Dack from Briston had his first taste of business life in this capacity. Smiths had a bookstall and delivered newspapers around the village; Oscar Miles was manager for quite a long period. Proceeding down the hill, on the corner where Briningham Road branches off, was George and Peter Ekes' hairdressing salon. This was a rendezvous for several of the men and boys of the village; some for haircuts or shaves or for Woodbines (2d. for five). The world was put right in George and Peter's shop.

A few yards further down the road was (and still is) Mr. Coleman's cycle shop and petrol station: I guess many will, recall going to "Colemans" for a tin of carbide for the gas lamps, which gave out a marvellous light. Later there were batteries for cycle lamps and there was always a wide range of cycle accessories in the window, which had a good sale, as cycling was then the principal mode of transport. Almost adjacent to Mr. Coleman's was the Hastings Arms, which was kept by Mr. and Mrs. Harry Prestwood who must have done a good trade at that time, though we never patronised. The Prestwoods always bought their supplies of bread and cakes from us which, looking back, showed they had no prejudice for our being 'tee-total'.

On the opposite side of the road was, and again still is, Coleman's grocery shop. I can remember seeing Mr. Mallett weighing and packing tea and sugar on the flat: It would be difficult to find any grocery assistant who could do that today. Also, I remember Mr. Coleman having the kindness of heart to place a box of oranges in a corner of the school playground for us to help ourselves to an orange each. The post office was kept by Miss Nellie Linda - I can still hear her saying in an over-loud voice, "Close the door! What do you think the door is there for?" Also Nellie on the telephone shouting, "Holt! Can't you hear me Holt?" (It was Nellie who was deaf, not the folks at Holt). A telegraph boy resplendent in uniform sat astride a bicycle ready to deliver any telegrams that were received over the 'phone (this was the old candlestick type; museum pieces today but they gave good service and needed little attention). Although Nellie had a tongue like a razor blade, she had a heart of pure gold. I recall how one day she took a post card to my mother and said, "Here you are Mrs. Gaskin -Jack needs some clean collars; don't forget to send them." Two days later she said, "You haven't sent those collars yet to Jack."

Two jobbing gardeners came from Briston; Billy Balls and Bob Neale. They were rather like two old dogs both highly jealous of each other. Billy wore the shabby genteel, Bob - who had once been the village verger - wore a series of sacks; a sack around his shoulders, one around his middle and a sack around each leg. Bob would say, "Why, you never could dig, Billy Balls ! - Look at your spade - it's only like a seaside spade!" Still, in their own way they both did good work, as I remember.

Bob Neale
Bob Beale, sexton and gravedigger at Briston church in his sacks, by H. Hemmington
The likeness is so good that John Gaskin recognised Bob as soon as he saw the picture, although it is many years since Bob died
We had two butchers whose signs both read "Family Butchers", Mr. Joice and Harry Stalham. Both served the community with cuts of meat to suit all purses. Harry Stalham, Billy Dunham and Harry Pilch would visit Norwich market every Saturday to buy bullocks, which would be transported by train to Melton station and unloaded at the cattle pens. We boys spent many happy hours at the cattle pens watching the bullocks, sheep and pigs being unloaded. Harry could tell the weight and value of a bullock simply by casting an eagle eye over it. I can remember spending a deal of time with Archie Copeman cutting up fat meat and rendering it down to dripping in a large copper similar to the type used in that day to boil clothes in.

Doctor Welsh lived close to the post office ; he was a Scotsman. The picture of the human skeleton and parts of the body hanging in the surgery used to rather scare me as a little lad. Nevertheless, he was a good doctor and attended to our needs. He was inclined to be very quick of movement; up the stairs, down the stairs - into his car before you could say "Flu".

On the opposite side of the road to Harry Stalham was the bakery owned by Mr. E. A. Rose and named "Hygienic Bakery". Mr. Rose was a member of the Brethren meeting at Avondale Room. Arthur lived out his Christian beliefs in his business and his life: One day he gave his best coat to a tramp who said he was in need. Arthur's father had come to Melton from Stradbroke, Suffolk, and occupied the bakery, which the company had built in the 1900's. By any modern standards it was "quite a set-up"; hot air, coke-fired ovens, built by Rhodes of Manchester, with white tiled bricks; a drum dough machine, a cake and sponge machine, all of which were turned by hand. The bakery, like the Company's houses and streets, was lit by gas manufactured at the gasworks at the end of Colville Road. Arthur married Miss Rachael Phillips and went to live at Fakenham and my father took over the management; we left the house where I was born in Kitchener Road and went to live at the bakery. The goods which were manufactured were of very high quality and only the best ingredients were used. After leaving school I worked full-time in the bakery (I had worked part-time whilst at school) and can vividly remember cranking that sponge machine until my arms ached and watching the skill with which the flour was blended into the batter by my father. The wholesome, crusty bread was delivered hot from the oven in hand carts. We took orders for the cakes and buns and these were delivered by a lad after school. There was a family in Gordon Road with the name of "Porter", most of the boys in the family did this part-time job during their school-days. Many of the loaves were baked on the oven sole. It was quite an art setting a batch of bread onto the oven sole because once they were set in they could not be moved until they were cooked. "Hot" was the magic word - all the goods were taken to the customers within a short while of them being baked. No "fridges" in those days; everything was oven-fresh. There were many services rendered which would astound people today; for example. hot water was given free (heated in a tank under the oven). Those who had time to spare, and unfortunately there were many at that time who were rendered idle through unemployment, would come to get warm, for a chat and a free bun. Linen was dried in the stoking room and customers would bring their "bakings" to be cooked; 2d for a joint of meat or a chicken, 1½d for a cake, 1d for a tray of short cakes.

Christmas was always the busy time; customers would make their cakes and bring them round to be baked. Each would have their own recipe, which meant that the resulting cakes were of great variety: some would come up, some would come up and go down again. Then, when they were called for, the problem arose as to whose cake was whose: "You know mine, Mr. Gaskin; mine are wrapped around with the 'Herald'." (They were nearly all wrapped with a copy of the 'Herald', not many with the 'Times'.)

I remember coming home one day from the bread round at about two o'clock; the others had already eaten their lunch, so I dined on my own. I had just finished a fruit pie which I had presumed was my "sweet", when I overheard my father say, "Well Miss Linda, I can assure you it was here a few minutes ago." It suddenly dawned on me that I had eaten Nellie's pie. After that when she sent things to be baked she would say, "Don't eat them Dack !" (She always assumed it was Eric who had eaten the pie.)

The Co-op flourished with various departments - groceries, drapery, coal and shoe-repairing. Mr. Bloomfield was manager and Mr. Oliver delivered coal with a Ford 'Model T' lorry. Vic Vardigan was in charge of the boot and shoe repairing department. We boys must have tried Vic's patience as we would make our way there time and time again : "Please Mr. Vardigan, will you put a toe (a hobnail) in my top?" or, "Please Mr. Vardigan, can I have a piece of wax to wax my cockerel?" (A piece of string threaded through the bottom of a cocoa tin.) Vic's hand-sewn boots and shoes were a dream of craftsmanship.
He and my father had been at Reepham school together and served their apprenticeships at the same time, Vic at shoe repairing and father at Mr. Overton's the IXL bakery. The wages were 1/- per week for the first year, walking each morning from Petty-Well to be at work by 5 a.m. Even by the standards of the day, these were grim conditions but the rigorous training seems to justify itself in producing good craftsmanship.

The fish and chip shop was run by Mr. and Mrs. Simons. In my imagination I can still hear Mr. Simons as he went around with his basket of fish shouting in a fine tenor voice, "Fine kippered herring". A pennyworth of chips was the order of the day for the boys and girls, or perhaps if times were tough - and they often were tough - it had to be a halfpennyworth of "scraps". The fish pans caught fire one night, causing great excitement to the younger members of the population, but the prompt action of one man who threw sand on to the flames soon put an end to the conflagration.

Undoubtedly the most colourful and interesting emporium was that of W. O. & George Fisher. It certainly was the forerunner of the modern supermarkets. George was a chemist of renown; educated at Gresham school, his knowledge of medicine and "cures" was quite unique and a single dose of one of his potions had a magic effect in curing a 'flu cold. Mrs. Fisher had a haberdashery department and also took an interest in the Temperance Society. Each time a boy or girl signed a "pledge" they were presented with a bar of chocolate. The trouble was that the pledge was broken many times and then signed again and again and each time it received a bar of chocolate. This became rather a racket, Mrs. Fisher discovered, but she continued the good work just the same.

William's stock of goods was unlimited and he specialised in seasonal lines. Christmas was the highlight, with the top department in full swing.
In the few days prior to St. Valentine's day the toys were again offered for sale at reduced prices and we found these on the doorstep after an exciting knock at the door. Spring was the time when William specialised in wall-paper and all other items required for spring cleaning. Many of the designs on the wall-paper would be frowned on today, but the mothers of the Melton homes made their four rooms clean and tidy with William's aid. There were also seeds for sowing in the garden in the springtime; ice creams in the summer; always the fruit, sweets, etc., filled the air with an aroma, which still lingers in the memory.

Melton was the Mecca for many tradesmen who came from surrounding villages and peddled their wares from door to door or, as in the case of Mr. Pegg from Sheringham, rang a bell. The housewives then came to his barrow to buy fish. It seemed that there was always someone around selling something or trying to persuade people that they ought to take out some insurance or change to some other daily newspaper : "Do you take the News Chronicle ... ? We will offer you (this or that) if you will take it daily."

Mr. Holsey from Hindolveston used to come round with oil and buy up rabbit skins. He called all his customers "Mrs. Whas'name". One day one good lady said, "My name is Mrs. X, I will not have you calling me Mrs. Whas'name." - "All right Mrs. Whas'name-I won't call you Mrs. Whas'name any more. Good morning Mrs. Whas'name ... "

Mr. Pegg (afore-mentioned) hawked his crabs and fish round the village. He would bring them by train from Sheringham and borrow Mr. Coleman's barrow to carry the boxes of fresh crabs, ringing his bell to announce that he was around - "Open it up for you missus to show you it's full." - 'Real honest-to-goodness' was Pegg, as was his son Kitchener who assisted him at times.

Jack Wakefield gave us our first taste of ice cream, in his pony-drawn converted cart. 1d. cornets were a real treat. There were none of the fancy modern varieties; just the one kind -vanilla wafer or cornet and we were more than satisfied. Silky Neale of Sharrington brought us cockles and samphire and Mr. Olly from Edgefield, fruit, fish and vegetables.

At least four bakers came into Melton; three from Briston; Bushell, Stroulger and Ives. I can visualise Herbert Stroulger riding in his covered cart down the main street, and on seeing an acquaintance he would raise a ham like hand and say in a stentorian voice, "How do . . How do!" He was a local preacher and on Sundays conducted services in many of the village chapels in the neighbourhood. Herbert used to put the same energy into his services as he did his work. The hymns were read out in a loud voice, hesitating between each number, and the sermon was delivered with such enthusiasm that beads of perspiration would appear on his forehead.

Jimmy Strutt (now living at Cranmere House, Fakenham) delivered packet groceries from a hand cart similar to the type we delivered bread from. He would pull this from Briston and it always amazed me how he managed to manoeuvre up and down the paths without falling over linen props and other obstacles. I know he had his little dog to guide him but, considering he was blind, it was still a miracle how he did it.

Harry Fisher sold wet fish and Stanley Stone would hawk this around for him on Mr. Coleman's barrow on occasions. One morning my father went to work at 6 a.m. and found Stanley in the bakery (which was rarely locked and if it was, the key was hanging on a nail nearby). On questioning Stanley as to what he meant at that early hour, Stanley said that he had been to Briston to sell fish. "One man seemed a bit annoyed John. I rang my bell and he put his head out of the bedroom window and said 'What do you want?' I said, 'Any fish required?' He slammed the window down John!" At 5 a.m. I should imagine the man was annoyed.

Mr. Bangey delivered sleepers sawn into convenient lengths for chopping into firewood. He had a wooden leg; I believe he lost his leg "on the job" - this was before the days of compensation, but I imagine his workmates gave him the privilege of delivering the wood, this being lighter work. We boys always held our breath as he put his good foot on the cart, and away the pony would go and stop of its own accord at the next customer.

Characters who came from Briston were Tom Tipple and Trianna, they bought old iron, rabbit skins and anything else that could be sold to make an honest penny. Tom was about 6' 4" tall, Trianna rather shortish. Tom usually wore a mustard and pepper suit. Trianna wore long voluminous skirts with silk Black Top. They never married, the local vicar did persuade them to take upon themselves the privileges of Holy Matrimony but on the day and time of the Ceremony it was only Trianna who turned up at Church ... Tom refused to come so the Wedding never did take place ...
Tom came to a sad end ... he was on the roof of his house relaying a tile when a neighbour whom he had fallen out with, shot him with a 12-bore gun ... Tom fell from the roof dead ... Trianna died of a broken heart not long after.

Travelling singers and players would perform in the streets, begging for a coin; often these 'buskers' were the aftermath of the 1914-18 war, who on being demobbed found it difficult to get work. One man I recall must have been a brilliant musician. He rarely spoke to anyone, never asked for money, but placed his cap on the ground and his playing was superb. This was my first taste of classical music and the appetite has increased with the vears.

When the railway was first pioneered there must have been a marvellous combination of brain and brawn, both types of people working happily together: the thought and the work involved in producing a railway that had so very few accidents; when one considers the fact that a good deal of the line was single-track, it must have been the brain behind the "tablet" system and the men who operated it that made the system run so smoothly. Also one thinks of the thousands of tons of soil that was dug out to form the various cuttings and moved to build up embankments elsewhere and of the bridges, which were built: I went under Melton bridge just before it was demolished and noted the wonderful piece of engineering that it was; concrete girders crossing and re-crossing gave great strength and this bridge never gave any trouble all the years of its existence. Now the bridge is no longer there, in its place is a modern road leading into Melton from Pigs Grave. Driving along this road a few days ago, I had in mind that new industry had been attracted to Melton these past tew years; Astley Terrace is having a face-lift; suggestions and ideas for a brighter Melton are on the board and I sense an atmosphere of hope coming to the village. It is not to be expected that Melton will ever regain its position as the "Crewe of North Norfolk", but maybe like the Phoenix there will be a rising from the ashes and the heart of the village will beat once more.

Finally, I would like to send greetings to any old "Meltonian" who happens to read this article. I like to think that the good work that was done in Melton-in the early 1900's - the moral and spiritual work done by the Railway Mission and the Churches, the education in the schools and evening classes, the apprenticeship training, and above all, the art of living together as a community loving our neighbours as ourselves, LIVES ON and is continued by the men and women who were born and bred at Melton and are now scattered all over the world.
Norfolk Fair - 1971


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